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Caught in a landslide, no escape from reality - Day 16-18.

  • danielcarney
  • Apr 13, 2016
  • 5 min read

3 massive days. Wow I can't even describe the distance the uncomfortable seats the minimal toilet stops and worst of all departing before dawn and arriving after dusk. Departure from camp on day 16 was a 4am departure. It was goodbye to Sam and Louise this morning they we nice enough to get up and say goodbyes. We were up at three to escape the terrible traffic of Dar Es Salam. Amazingly the amount of people on the streets waiting for buses to work Incredibly they we're probably only heading about 20kms to work and some starting day jobs at 9, wearing suit and ties.

It was a massive day on the road. En route to Iringa, meaning 'fortress' and the location of where people hid in the hills as it was like a fortress during the rebellion. It was so late arriving at camp it was after 6 and sundown. Half of the information about where we were staying was a blu. We were literally in camp for about 10 hours.

Early start again this morning of Day 17

We we leaving at 5:45am to make tracks for the border of Malawi again another huge day! We had Minimal toilet breaks, for Aaron this was not what he needed as he's again up shit creek without a paddle and the river is certainly flowing this time.

Not the only one though a few others on the Truck also have the same issue with making it off the bus with their legs crossed. We had arrived at the border just after 12:30. We had our visas ahead of time thankfully, but what a shit show. It took 2.5 hours to proceed 18 visas which really just was a 1 page document, a stamp and $75USD later.

Also the truck needed to be processed which took almost as much time as all of us. However we arrived through the border after 3:30 and we still had another 125km to cover. Knowing all this now I will say my first "I would do this differently" is that between major places flying is the way to go. It worked out that we spent 34 hours of traveling and 22 hours in campsites over these days, that had nothing to see but setting up the tent, eating and 1 or 2 beers before bed.

It is great to socialize with people on the truck sure, but half the time we were sleeping on the bus and not much conversation about anything really. Hard to write this blog on these days but there really isn't anything exciting about to write other then Aaron's diarrhea and well that's about it.

Day 18 however this is where is does get exciting. We arrived in Chitimba beach on lake Malawi last night. For those who haven't heard of The Country Malawi it's quite small mostly undeveloped, cars and vehicles were a luxury item and if you see them they are usually passing through to Zambia or Vice Versa.

Lake Malawi is the 3rd largest fresh water lake in all of Arica and also the country where Madonna has adopted a child from. Beautiful people and still enjoying living the simple life. Today we had a slight sleep in, 7:30 breakfast for a 8am departure. We were supposed to be on the Road for about 4.5 hours today. But as it keeps popping up I'm going to use it again, "TIA" you will have go back and read what this means if you have forgotten.

We started our ascend into the mountains of Malawi on route to our 2 night stop on Kande Beach right on the lake. 4.5 hours turned into 8 hours. At no ones fault but there was quite the bumper to bumper traffic. Tucks, Cars, Buses and people on the mountain pass. Something ahead had put us all to a stand still. We all jumped out to take a look as it was evident that we weren't going anywhere at all fast.

Walking up the road about 500 metres we were about the 6-7th truck behind what appeared to be a boulder on the road. How mistaken we were, the mountain with all the heavy rain the night before had given way and caused a major landslide the road and was blocked, there was no way through it was merely impossible. Now remember what I said about cars being a luxury. By god the reality of that was truly evident when out came the pitch forks, shovels, and pick axes.

It was going to take hours to clear the road of mud, trees and several large boulders. Mark the American without though headed back to the truck for the shovel with no time to waste started to shovel the tonnes of mud. The landslide covered about 100 metres of the road and not to mention this was the only way. Our driver and trip leader rolled up their pants and sleeves and also started to help. This was going to be quite the challenge. Within 30 mins it appeared there was hardly any progress made but from the bottom of the trucks in queue we could hear metal scraping constantly against concrete and sure enough word had reached the village before long as it was only about 2.5 hours since the slide.

We looked to the bottom of the road and the men from the village came dragging their shovels, Machetes, picks, axes, and pitch forks it was quite the scene and a little bit of relief for all, knowing that about 20-30 men had arrived to join the task It took about 4 hours of digging. Arguments and the locals were all trying to cut through by foot, only slowing the men down. They tried each and every way over the rubble through the bush on the tree tops. I must say they are great carrying baskets on their heads but see them do it while climbing tree top to tree top. It was impressive.

At last the path was cleared. Now this is where shit got real interesting. In a place where people earn less then $1-$2 per day this passage now came with a toll and a make shift boom gate with boulders in the path of the wheels. The toll was 3000 kwacha which equals about $6AUD per vehicle.

We thought it was hilarious given how long we had waited and we were part of the assistance of it all we all now had to wait for people to pay the toll on both sides to pass. With numerous others near breakdowns in the mud we got through no problems and without paying the toll, the waiver was given by the fact you were covered in mud. We passed through at about 1:30 and we still had 4 hours until we reach the beach and camp.

So yet again another long day but at least we had a bit of excitement and well quite the experience. Tomorrow we have a few optional activities including horse riding on the beach/lake and a few other relaxing ideas for our free day in Lake Malawi.

A cold beer is in order and let's hope that the drives are less from here.

-End

 
 
 

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